Sunday, September 8, 2019

2019 Wines - Chapter 3 - Frontenac Gris

Somebody screwed up. One of my Frontenac vines is clearly different, and the wine forum has identified it as Frontenac Gris.

Frontenac Gris, with regular Frontenac in the background
With plenty of grapes on the vine, why not? We got around 15# of grapes, enough for a few bottles. Frontenac is growing well, so maybe Frontenac Gris is the answer to my white wine problems.

Picked August 24, pH 2.86, SG 1.090, TA 14, just like the regular variety. KMS 50ppm, then 24 hour cold settling.  The following day, 16g calcium carbonate to 3.26; also added 1t pectic, 2g Booster Blanc, 3g Opti White, 1/2t tannin. I rehydrated QA23 (my go-to white wine yeast) and it took right off. I step fed as usual, added 2g bentonite on day 3, and by Sept 1 it was down to 1.000. I racked to a 1 gallon carboy plus a 500ml bottle, redosed with KMS, and let it settle in.



Promising wine. We think we remember which vine it was, so this winter we'll take some hardwood cuttings and see if we can't make another 10 vines in case this wine turns out to be a favorite.

2019 Wines - Chapter 2 - Frontenac

Lisa and I picked Frontenac on August 24th, and as with all of the grapes this year, it was earlier than we would have liked. The birds and raccoons turn out to be a reliable signal of approaching ripeness and drop in acidity.

Frontenac is known for being difficult to make into good red wine. I tried a rosé last year but was disappointed. Even though I pressed it immediately, it was still to dark in color for a rosé. Then it browned, either due to color instability or oxidation (or both). It's drinkable but barely.

So as with the Foch, we're trying a red this time around, with the addition of an extra dose of tannin immediate after fermentation to see if it will stabilize the color. We got around 200# from 8 vines, the ninth vine turning out to be Frontenac Gris which merits a separate wine and a separate post. So, destem, crush, 12g Opti Red, 12g Booster Rouge, 0.8g Lallzyme EX, 7t tannin, 2T pectic, and in for a 3 day cold soak.


Once out, we got pH 2.96, TA 14, adjusted with 160g calcium carbonate (double salt method) to 3.59 and 9.0 respectively. Light toast (1c) and heavy toast oak chips (1/2c) went in, and we have almost 20 gallons of must.


Potential disaster averted

The must had a cap even before adding the yeast. I used 10g (2 packs) of 71B, again to try to manage the acid. Twelve hours later I coinoculated with VP41 rehydrated only with spring water. It took another day to get my MLB nutrient, 8g Opti Malo. The yeast was step fed with Fermaid K, and I also added 12g bentonite on day 3. By September 2, the cap was starting to drop, so it was time to move to carboy. While I put this wine through the press basket, I basically took only the free run wine and didn't actually press it at all. I think I have enough.


The following day I racked off the gross lees and added that second dose of tannin and 10 oak cubes per gallon.



The malolactic bacteria look better with this Frontenac than in the Foch, maybe because I remembered the bentonite in the primary. The color is good so far, only time will tell. Will seriously consider blending these two wines as is done up north.

Sunday, September 1, 2019

2019 Wines - Chapter 1 - Foch

For the past 3 years I've been pronouncing this grape "Foke" to rhyme with "poke." It turns out it is a soft "ch" sound, as in "gauche." It will take me a couple of months to unlearn my old incorrect pronunciation.

As mentioned in an earlier post, the critters were taking this grape first. I later noted a trail from the back corner of the vineyard, and the Foch is the first grape these critters would encounter on the trail to dinner. After the first three vines were stripped clean despite bird netting, I decided it was time to pick, because at that loss rate, there would be no grapes left by my next picking opportunity.

Before

After
We picked August 17th, about 190#. Crushing and destemming yielded 68l must, with starting pH 3.09, SG 1.076. I didn't write down the TA but I think it was 14. I protected with SO2 but underdosed initially and had to go back a day later and make up the difference. I added 120g calcium carbonate using the double salt technique and this time, the pH was high enough in the small batch.


Some of the usual additions...

  • 1.5g Lallzyme EX
  • 1/2c heavy toast oak chips
  • 1c light toast oak chips
  • 4T pectic
  • 3T tannin

...and then a 4 day cold soak. After rewarming, I added 1680g sugar to get to 1.090, and another 38g calcium carbonate. The final pH came to 3.48, which is fine because we're not after California Cab with this wine; we're after a red that can pair with food more like a pinot noir.

By the time I was ready to pitch the yeast, we already had a cap. I went with 71B because I imagine the malic to be very high in this wine. It was rehydrated with GoFerm and pitched. A day later I realized I didn't have the usual Booster Rouge and Opti-Red, so I made those additions, 8g each, later than usual. At that point I co-inoculated VP41. I didn't have any Acti-ML so I just rehydrated with spring water and fed with Opti Malo. Keeping fingers crossed on the MLF.

Two days after pitching the yeast, the SG was already down to 1.025. So the plan to step-feed was abandoned and I dosed one last time with Fermaid O. The following day it was 1.003 and I pressed, yielding 13g free run and 1g of pressed wine. Two days later, on August 27th, I racked off the gross lees and added oak cubes 10/gal. Hybrid reds are notorious for their post-fermentation color instability. Supposedly you can address this with the addition of grape tannins post ferment, but after pricing grape tannin I went with regular tannin, 1/2tsp/gal. This is double the usual dose of tannin - one regular dose preferment and a second dose post-ferment. This will be the plan with Frontenac as well.



I've heard from more than one source that Foch is a "love it or hate it" sort of wine. We had some for the first time in Wisconsin last month and we didn't hate it. Fingers crossed.

Critter Battles

After getting control of fungal issues with a good spray program, I'm now battling two new foes. One is a micro-critter: crown gall has affected many of the Norton and some of the other vines. And the macro-critters seem to find my grapes just as soon as the pH is above pucker. The netting we used this year seems too fragile and I've found holes where the birds or raccoons or possums got in and out. My pick decisions are driven more by how many grapes I have left after the macro-critters than any numbers.

Speaking of numbers...

17-Aug 24-Aug 31-Aug
Brix pH Brix pH Brix pH
Traminette 18 2.76
Frontenac 18 2.66 21 2.97
Vidal 17 2.47 16 2.8 18.2 2.97
Chardonel 15.5 2.44 15 2.66 15 2.74
Chambourcin 13 2.37 13 2.45 14 2.76

I picked the Traminette August 29th and it was a good thing, because I got only 25# and by Aug 31st, despite netting, there was nothing left. The Foch was disappearing at a rate of 10%/day, so I picked it on August 17th at 3.09 and 18.4.  Not ideal. Today the only fruit left hanging is Chardonel, Chambourcin, and a little Norton. Next year we're planning on using the cleverly-named Aircrow.




Saturday, August 17, 2019

2019 First Harvest

I tested the grapes today.

Brix pH
Frontenac 18 2.66
Chardonel 15.5 2.44
Vidal 17 2.47
Chambourcin 13 2.37

So for the most part not ready. I didn't bother testing the Foch today because I tested it earlier in the week at 21 brix. The critters were taking about 10% per day, so we went ahead and harvested. 

It had to be raccoons. 
Most of the vines were in better shape.
The yield was about 190 pounds. These nine vines equaled all of last year's harvest, and three of them were stripped by birds and raccoons. We still have about 40 vines to go.


Naturally once we got everything destemmed and crushed, the brix came in at 17.5; pH ~2.8. But the critters kind of backed us into a corner. If the current crop loss continued, at that rate we wouldn't have any grapes left at all by next weekend. So, no regrets. 

Sunday, July 21, 2019

Fruit is Coming!


Normally by this time of the summer we are dragging hose and just trying to keep enough water on plants to keep them alive. But so far this year we've stayed wet enough to keep plants looking good and rain barrels in the greenhouse topped up. Growing degree days started accumulating late and despite some really warm temps over the past week, haven't really caught up too much. We're at 1842 since April 16 (average bud break). Also, climate change:


Despite two trips out of town, we largely stayed ahead of the beetle damage so far. We have veraison on Foch and Frontenac, but not Chambourcin:
 




Speaking of trips, we spent a few days at the Chalet. Bob and Sharon visited, and the weather and company was great.



Upon our return, we had water issues in the greenhouse. The point of failure with my demand pump is the pressure switch. The diagnosis was easy, as this has happened before. Feeling clever, I ordered not one, but three replacement switches. I didn't feel that clever when, after receiving my shipment, I found 2 more extra switches from my order the last time it failed. 


The GFCI outlet the pump uses also failed. In the process of fixing that, I fixed a stripped screw hole in the cover, making it watertight for the first time in a couple of years. The repairs were more satisfying that one would imagine.


This time of year lots of stuff fruits. Not only are grapes coming on, but we've finally got enough jaboticaba for a batch of wine. 




First time ever for a Second crop of Grumichama

Lemondrop Mangosteen

Dragonfruit
Not pictured are blackberries, because I'm embarrassed by the fact that the patch is completely overgrown. More pawpaws again this year, but I suspect it will be another month before they are ripe. 

Some of the Nortons are still struggling but we haven't lost any more vines. And in some really exciting news, we have about 5 of the cuttings take root.


Lisa and I had to work all week, but Allie and Joe were here and got some work done as well. We really enjoyed the visit, hope they did too!




Sunday, June 16, 2019

Struggling Norton, Father's Day Fishing

The Nortons are struggling a bit. Many to the south are weak and pale. Three have suddenly wilted and died. Right now I'm missing 9 of 44 vines. Many will not be strong enough to support grapes. Norton is notoriously hard to root, but I took a dozen cuttings from the stronger vines, trimmed them, dipped in rooting hormone, and potted them up.


Jake wanted to go fishing so we got permission from the neighbors across the road and headed out on Father's Day. The fish were biting.





We have our first meaningful jostaberry harvest. They could be sweeter and less sour. We'll freeze them for a Tutti Fruiti wine at some later time.



Callaway County sunset, by Jake
Clapp's Lake, circa 1997

20+ years later